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		<title>Insulation on The IR Heat Online Shop</title>
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				<title>Glass insulation drying lamp</title>
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				<pubDate>Tue, 07 Jul 2026 09:12:10 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://ir-heat-shop.com/images/de51387667ace2164209b43f1462b665.png&#34; alt=&#34;Glass insulation drying lamp&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&#34;engineering-for-the-long-line&#34;&gt;Engineering for the Long Line&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We built this glass insulation drying lamp for one reason: long coating lines. The whole point? Hitting the perfect curing curve, zone by zone, without scorching the glass underneath. You need a heat source that fires up instantly, holds steady, and fits cleanly into your existing setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3 id=&#34;power-voltage-and-physical-specs&#34;&gt;Power, Voltage, and Physical Specs&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heart of it is a 400V, 2500W halogen infrared lamp, usually in a 300mm tube. That power density isn&amp;rsquo;t by accident. It delivers the punch you need to evaporate solvents and cross-link polymers at line speed—even on wide glass.&#xA;Going 400V means lower current than lower-voltage options. So your cable runs stay lean, and your terminal blocks don&amp;rsquo;t get overworked. The 300mm length keeps the heat focused where you want it, so you can stack lamps close together without turning the whole oven into a broad, wasteful heater.&#xA;One heads-up: packing 2500W into a tight tube creates serious local heat. Make sure your machine’s cooling and ventilation are up to the job. Otherwise, the lamp—and nearby electronics—will run hotter than they should.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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